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Whenever curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.